Painting on Sprue?

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AndrewGPaul
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Re: Painting on Sprue?

Post by AndrewGPaul » Mon Sep 02, 2013 7:13 pm

me_in_japan wrote:*MiJ's eye twitches a bit*

Sprue painting

Bad auxryn! BAD auxryn!

Here's why:

1) impossible to do lighting properly - which way is up? Which bits should be lighter/darker? It's far easier to tell of everything is assembled.
trickier, but not impossible. You're also assuming that he's applying highlights from an imaginary point light source, which generally isn't the case. Even then, you'll generally know what pose the model will be in.
2) unity of colour - getting colour matches across all the bitz will be very difficult(assuming its not all just monochrome)
How so? You're still painting all the bits at once, with the same paint mix. It's no different to painting a squad of individual models in the same colour.
3) how exactly do you intend to remove all the mould lines/sprue nubs once it's painted? Surely you'd just end up filing off all the paint you just on?
You can usually remove some of the attachment points, while leaving enough to hold the part on the sprue. Other than that, yes, you'll need to touch up some areas.
4) assuming by some miracle you could manage (3),
A good, sharp scalpel will leave you with a minimal cut area.
you'd still be left with little grey spots all over the mini where the sprue had been attached to the bit. You'd have a hella time matching those spots with the surrounding area. I suspect you'd end up repainting the whole bit.
If you're doing a simple base-shade-highlight, especially if you're not mixing colours, the touch-up is easy. In fact, you likely won't need to shade, since sprue attachment points tend not to be in recesses.

Looking at the new Space Marine Tactical Squad sprues as an example, the legs are easy - attachment points are the hip joint and soles of the feet - you won't be painting them anyway. Shoulder pads have three points on the rim; You could remove one of those before painting, and the touch-up won't be onerous. Torsos at the shoulders and heads at the neck so again, no paint. Bolters are at the wrist, muzzle and top of the gun. Of those, the only awkward point is the top of the gun. The muzzle can be easily drilled out and painted gunmetal when you remove it from the sprue. The only awkward points are the backpacks and some of the arms, and some of the fiddly greeblies.

If you do paint models unassembled or partly assembled, make sure you scrape the paint of the surfaces to be glues. Poly cement might soften paint, but it won't actually move it out the way. Glue two painted surfaces together and the strength of the join is as weak as the bond between two layers of paint; bits will fall off.

Having said that, generally I part-assemble the mini, so I can paint the bits and still reach all the parts that will be covered by the gun or an arm or a cape or something.

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ashmie
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Re: Painting on Sprue?

Post by ashmie » Mon Sep 02, 2013 8:45 pm

Yeah, I've tried it and usually once you clip it you have big chunk to paint over where the model has chipped the paintwork.
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AndrewGPaul
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Re: Painting on Sprue?

Post by AndrewGPaul » Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:06 pm

Only Sith deal in absolutes. I don't often do it, but it's handy for, for example, painting the interior of vehicles before final assembly.

Auxryn
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Re: Painting on Sprue?

Post by Auxryn » Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:00 am

Well, I gave it a try anyway.

Here is a link to the results:

https://plus.google.com/113765630027259 ... HggRsfDmsM

Doing the base coat on the sprue didn't really help at all, but it doesn't seem to have hurt the models either.
I ended up just doing block colors with edge highlighting and tried to keep things neat. It looks okay from a distance.

I did put a lot of work into making them orky and barbaric, in keeping with my Tau detachment's slow decent into savagery.

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Admiral-Badruck
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Re: Painting on Sprue?

Post by Admiral-Badruck » Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:26 am

They look great.
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Konrad
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Re: Painting on Sprue?

Post by Konrad » Sun Dec 15, 2013 11:48 pm

Auxryn wrote: I did put a lot of work into making them orky and barbaric, in keeping with my Tau detachment's slow decent into savagery.
"...my Tau detachment's slow descent into savagery." Yes! Now that warms my green heart! :mrgreen:
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The Other Dave
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Re: Painting on Sprue?

Post by The Other Dave » Mon Dec 16, 2013 2:49 am

Looking good - what you've done is really pretty much all you can do to highlight smooth black surfaces (at least before you get into some of the more-trouble-than-they're-worth-for-tabletop-quality-miniatures techniques that MiJ will probably start talking about in three... two...).

You might want to look at going to Volk's and picking up a bottle of Vallejo Decal Medium - it'll do wonders for the GW decals, especially when followed up by a coat of your favorite sealer.
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Auxryn
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Re: Painting on Sprue?

Post by Auxryn » Mon Dec 16, 2013 2:35 pm

I already sealed them. I was hoping the sealant would help keep the decals from falling off (which has been a problem with some of my other models) but it turned out that the sealant fogged the clear part of the decals and really made them look ... like decals.
Not certain how to deal with that next time. What is decal medium?

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Re: Painting on Sprue?

Post by AndrewGPaul » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:04 pm

The best results I had with decals was when I:

1. Applied gloss varnish to the surface to which the decal would be applied.
2. Used a decal-softening solution both before and after applying the decal (I used Humbrol DecalFix, but no doubt there's some Japanese wonder-product that's better); brush onto the surface, apply the decal, dab it dry then apply more of the solution.
3. Gloss varnish over the top.
4. Matt varnish to finish everything off.

With a 24-hour drying period between each of those steps.

If I'm in a hurry, I usually just apply some PVA glue to the area where the decal's going, to help it stick. I've noticed that GW's decals nowadays come off the backing paper really quickly, and are really thin and prone to tearing.

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The Other Dave
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Re: Painting on Sprue?

Post by The Other Dave » Tue Dec 17, 2013 1:13 pm

Auxryn wrote:Not certain how to deal with that next time. What is decal medium?
Fundamentally, it's a solvent that softens the plastic the decal is printed on, making it stick more closely to whatever you're sticking it to. Helps a bunch with the GW decals, which are printed on relatively thick plastic that has trouble conforming to the shape of what you put it on - which is why you get that gray fogged-up looks-like-a-decal look. (Heck, it might even work for you after the sealant's down.)

Really, like AGP says, any similar product will do, I just happen to know that Volk's carries Vallejo's product, which I use and works well for me.
Feel free to call me Dave!
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Miniatures painted in 2023: 252
Miniatures painted in 2024:
Epic scale: 9 vehicles, 56 stands of infantry, a whole buncha terrain
32mm-ish: 8 infantry

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